Secure the black and red wires into the two unlabeled slots. Feed the end of the white wire into the slot with the neutral screw on the back of the outlet, and the green wire into the slot with the ground screw. Use a wire stripper to remove 1 foot (30 cm) of the coating on the outside of the cable to expose the wires inside, then strip ½ inch (1.3 cm) of the insulation off the end of each wire. Push the outlet box into the hole and screw it in securely, then pull about 1 foot (30 cm) of the cable out through the hole in the box. Use a fish tape to thread the cable through the wall between the hole you made for the outlet box and the hole you made near the circuit breaker. Run a rigid metal electrical conduit from the side of the breaker box to the hole you drilled and attach it to the wall with conduit straps every 1-2 feet (30-61 cm). Drill a hole in the wall near the circuit breaker box that’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider than the diameter of the cable. Measure the shortest route between the outlet box and your circuit breaker, then cut a 10/4 cable so that it’s 2-3 feet (61-91 cm) longer than the distance you measured. Next, use a drywall saw to cut out a hole in the right size and shape for the outlet box you want to install. You'll find the knowledge opens a few doors for you when you are kludging things together.To wire a 220V outlet, first switch off power at the main circuit breaker. The more wire, the more resistance.Īgain, read the manual, and get smart on single phase. This is because of the old saying in electrics, "distance equals resistance". Single phase electric motors effect multiple speeds by a totally non-intuitive means. (sheepish grin) Usually, if there is only one capacitor, it is the start cap. I know, I burned up a 220V motor that way. There is a run capacitor, a start capacitor, and they cannot be switched. You can have no capacitors, one capacitor, or two. The main coil then turns the motor against the load. The starter coil is then disconnected by the centrifugal switch you mentioned. It does this by combining its repulsion of the elemwents of the armature with the main coil. A thinner wire coil is the starter coil, it gets the motor to turning at all. Probably online? "When all else fails, read the instructions."īasically, a single phase, self starting motor works like this. That will slightly decrease the mystery of what you see. There are a number of books and websites that can help. Owner is a pool user - period - and can't help: he had pros wire up the new one.Ī really great idea is to "get smart" on single phase motors and what makes them tick. There are no other unallocated motor leads. How can the motor be simultaneously low speed and high speed? I cannot disconnect one or the other - that would only supply 120 volts total to the motor. All the leads are connected directly to power. The diagram states that the brown-black combo gives low speed (1725- motor is specced as two speed) and the brown-blue pairing is high speed. The wiring diagram on the motor shows using three leads: (motor) brown is connected to the supply neutral (motor) black is connected to one hot lead (motor) blue attaches to the other hot lead. Power in is standard 220 volt, single phase: 2 hot (110/120 volts each), neutral and ground. Three wires from this disappear into the interior of the motor - connections unknown. Within the hookup box there is a small object labelled Motor Start Switch, 294641903 00C45, Franklin Electric. Leads enter into the motor - no idea of internal connections I have visually inspected the capacitors on both motors: look like new - no leakage, swelling or burnt odor. Here are the contents of most of the label (both motors identical): Franklin Electric, 208-230 volts (small label states wired for 230 there is no 120 volt option), single phase,continuous rated, frame 56, date code C00, SF 1, max temp 50 degrees C, HP 4.5-.5 (not a typo), rpm 3450/1725, FLA 11.5-3.4, CAT 52019. Owner got new pump/motor combos and left these oldies at the curb for free pickup. Got a couple of free motors that I was assured will run (not tested tho) although the attached pool pumps have the shaft seals shot.
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